The jump from gym to rock takes time.
You won't be carried by strength or even indoor technique — it’s about getting used to how real stone feels, and how movement translates on rock.
Outdoor boulders ask for a little more awareness.
The good news: that awareness comes fast if you start simple and build time on rock.
1. Start Lower Than You Think
Grades don’t always translate between gym and rock.
A “V3” indoors might feel impossible outside, and that’s fine.
Start well below your usual level.
Use those sessions to understand smaller footholds, subtler holds, and harder-to-read sequences.
The goal isn’t to climb hard — it’s to get comfortable.
2. Learn by Moving, Not Watching
Videos and beta clips can help, but they take away part of the process.
Working out a sequence yourself teaches more than copying one.
Alongside watching footage to understand moves - see how you read a problem and connect the dots (rather than always memorising moves from others).
Experiment and adjust.
3. Pad Choice and Setup
Be overly cautious.
If you’re hesitant outdoors, use a pad you trust — not the lightest one you can find.
Confidence in your pad translates directly into how you move.
Set it flat. Check the ground.
It’s better to carry more weight than to climb with doubt.
→ Read: Pad Placement 101 — Smart Landings for Real Rock
4. Practise Low and Slow
The best outdoor learning happens close to the ground.
Climb easy problems slowly.
Experiment with body tension, weight shifts, and balance.
The lower the risk, the more you’ll actually try things instead of freezing.
Low, deliberate movement builds trust before the height catches up.
5. Understand Movement on Rock
Rock doesn’t just reward pulling — it rewards accuracy and understanding.
Moves depends on how your feet, hips, and hands share weight.
Focus on:
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Foot placement — weight through the toe, not the edge.
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Quiet feet — precise and slow.
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Body position — the closer your hips are to the wall, the better.
6. Trust
Trust your feet, your pad, your spotter, and your read of the move.
Hesitation wastes more energy than falling.
7. Conditions Matter
When it’s wet, rock weakens — especially sandstone.
Climbing on damp rock polishes, damages, and even breaks it.
Always avoid wet or humid days, even if the surface looks dry.
Moisture can sit deep in the stone for hours.
If a shaded hold feels greasy or dark, wait.
Temperature and humidity shift friction massively.
Cold and dry is ideal; warm and humid kills friction.
The same problem can feel two grades apart depending on the weather.
8. What to Bring
Bring what’s useful — not what fills a pack.
Needed:
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Pad(s) you trust
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Chalk, shoes and brush
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Water, tape
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Spotter or partner
Good to have:
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Extra pad for seams or sit-starts
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Brush stick
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Skin care, knee pads and snacks
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Headtorch for long evenings
Anything else is weight you won’t use.
Bottom Line
Movement on rock isn’t luck — it’s a learned skill, that takes time to perfect.
Spend time on low-level moves, have frequent sessions on rock, and trust the process, and you'll be moving well in no time at all.
In need of a pad? Fix that first.
Shop Slaphappy Bouldering Pads
Whilst risk management, experience, and good practice can improve safety, bouldering pads and the information above do not guarantee safety.
Read our Safety and Liability Disclaimer for more information.
