Pad placement isn’t just dropping foam under a boulder. It’s about reading terrain, potential fall areas, and managing risk, whilst making sure the session ends with tired skin, not sprained ankles.
Why Pad Placement Matters
Pads work much better together than alone.
A single pad under the crux might look fine, but falls can come unexpectedly — and sprains or injuries often come from the small drops.
Good placement:
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Reduces rolled ankles and pad gaps
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Controls energy transfer on uneven ground
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Keeps landings predictable and centred
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Makes spotting easier and more effective
Bad placement? That’s how pads fold, flip, and fail — and how you end up hitting the deck rather than the pad.
How To Place Pads
1. Start with the fall line.
Look at where the climber is most likely to fall — not where they start. Trace their trajectory to the ground and place your main pad to meet that line.
If you’re working with a setup or a crew, place the thickest, largest, and most impact-absorbent pads where the climber will be highest. (Beware: thicker pads aren’t always the most energy-absorbent depending on their age and foam system. Move pads around based on how they actually feel to land on.)
2. Fill the gaps.
In an ideal world, overlap seams and edges by at least 10 cm. Use secondary pads, sit pads, or gap pads to cover rocks, roots, or hollows. Soft or uneven terrain can shift after falls — so readjust frequently.
3. Level the landing.
Pads should create a stable, continuous surface. Avoid haphazard setups with uneven stacking or large air pockets underneath. On slopes, angle pads slightly to catch the fall (so you don't take a ride down the hill).
4. Adjust for direction.
Highballs need larger pads and layered impact zones (stacking pads). Traverses or lowball roofs need horizontal coverage (gap pads and large surface areas). Think in zones — where each fall could happen, and how the terrain will affect it.
5. Manage movement.
Pads slide after impact. Check their position regularly, especially on slopes, wet grass, or leaf litter. Reposition before the next attempt, not after a miss.
6. Watch others (but think for yourself).
Observing pad setups in videos or other climbers’ sessions can help, but terrain and conditions always change. Use others’ setups as reference, not rule. It’s better to build understanding through small, consistent adjustments than to copy what you’ve seen.
Terrain Awareness and Pad Selection
Smart pad placement starts before you even drop one.
If you only have a single pad, choose climbs that match your coverage. Some boulders are meant for big crews and big stacks — don’t force a solo pad into a multi-pad problem.
Check the ground before committing:
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Roots and rocks can roll or twist ankles even under foam. Make sure they don’t sit in hinges.
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Wet grass, sand, and moss shift more than you think.
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Loose gravel and sloped dirt can turn good falls into slides.
If the landing’s full of hazards, clean it up first.
Use a small gap pad or sit-start pad to fill holes — just be cautious that small pads don’t drift apart and create traps.
Working With Spotters
Pad placement and spotting are part of the same conversation.
Spotters guide the fall; pads take the hit.
Before each attempt, check:
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Where the climber expects to land
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How the spotter plans to redirect the fall
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Whether pad seams or angles create hazards
A five-second talk saves a bad landing.
Read more in Spot Smarter — it’s the other half of good landings.
Field-tested Tips
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Double-stack where the ground drops away.
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Keep a lightweight filler pad for edges and holes.
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Recheck pad alignment every few falls — pads and terrain changes fast.
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If climbing at night, use bright-coloured pads, illuminate the landing well, or mark pad edges with chalk arrows pointing inward.
Bottom Line
Smart pad placement isn’t luck — it’s a learned skill.
It’s the difference between confidence and caution, between a clean session and an early exit.
If your pads can’t handle the landing, fix that first.
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Whilst risk management, experience, and good practice can improve safety, bouldering pads and the information above do not guarantee safety.
Read our Safety and Liability Disclaimer for more information.
