Keep Foam Alive. Keep Sessions Safe.
A good pad should last years. Many don’t, because they’re stored wet, cooked in cars, or stored closed.
Looking after your pad keeps it performing the way it should — consistent landings, longer foam life, and fewer “why did that hurt?” moments.
Why Pad Care Matters
Every fall compresses the foam and stresses the shell. Over time, moisture, sunlight, rock, dirt, and pressure all chip away at the materials that make pads safe.
Good care:
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Prolongs foam life
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Prevents fabric and stitching from prematurely degrading
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Extends hinge life
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Delays replacement and saves money
Pads don’t fail overnight — they fade slowly. The goal is to slow that fade.
Keep It Dry
Moisture is a big killer of foam. Whilst the closed-cell foam in our pads is more resistant to moisture, open-cell foam is a different story. Open-cell foam is porous — moisture can lead to mould, mildew, and reduced impact absorption. Once wet, it can lose rebound and starts to break down from the inside if stored damp.
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Always open pads after wet sessions to dry properly.
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Don’t leave them folded or zipped in cars, vans, or sheds overnight.
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Store dry and ventilated — under a bed or at the back of a van is great if the air’s dry.
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If it’s soaked, open the hinge fully and stand the pad on its side until completely dry.
Even hinge pads need drying and storing open — taco pads really do.
Protect from UV and Heat
UV damage happens even through glass. Nylon and polyester slowly break down from sunlight exposure.
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Don’t leave pads by sunny windows — they’ll fade and weaken over time.
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Avoid storing them in hot cars. The back of a van or under a bed (if dry) is better than a bright room.
Cleaning: Do Less, Do It Right
Pads don’t need scrubbing — they need cleaning smart.
Here’s what actually works:
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Wait until mud is dry before cleaning — brushing when wet just spreads it deeper, along with any rock or grit.
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Use a vacuum cleaner to remove grit and dust from fabric, seams, and zips. It’s far better than wiping (gamechanger from our experience !).
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For marks or spills, wipe with a damp cloth and mild soap. Never use bleach or solvents.
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Don’t machine wash.
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Wipe down straps, buckles, and webbing — preventing grit, dust, and sand build-up that causes premature fraying.
Rotate and Rest
Foam compresses faster in high-impact zones. Rotating use spreads the wear.
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For multi-pad setups, rotate which pad takes the big hits.
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If the middle starts feeling “dead,” use it as a support pad for flatter ground instead of ditching it immediately.
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Make sure others at the crag know if one pad is less absorbent — communication keeps everyone safe.
Store It Right
Storage can double — or halve — a pad’s lifespan.
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Store flat when you can, hinge open (even hinge pads, but especially taco pads).
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If folded, keep it upright rather than stacked.
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Never pile gear or boxes on top — constant pressure crushes foam and reduces lifespan.
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Avoid hanging by the shoulder straps long-term; it can stretch webbing and warp the shape.
Repair Early
Small issues become big ones quickly.
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Patch small tears with outdoor-grade repair tape.
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Restitch loose webbing before it rips out fully.
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Replace damaged buckles with strong ones — not flimsy spares.
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If a hinge seam splits, stitch it shut or tape it temporarily to keep grit out.
When to Retire It
Everyone has different points where they’ll retire a pad.
The way we see it: you should never be bottoming out when you do. Once you feel ground impact through a controlled fall, the pad’s long done.
Old foam loses its ability to absorb energy long before it looks worn out. Retire it from active use — or repurpose it under training board.
Bottom Line
Pads take impact. You take responsibility.
Clean it, dry it, store it right — and it’ll look after you for years.
If your pads can’t handle the landing, fix that first.
Shop Slaphappy Bouldering Pads
Whilst risk management, experience, and good practice can improve safety, bouldering pads and the information above do not guarantee safety.
Read our Safety and Liability Disclaimer for more information.
